TRAVEL GUIDE: ST. MORITZ

A LUXURY GUIDE TO ST. MORITZ

how to navigate the swanky ski town and birthplace of Alpine tourism in style

If you find yourself lucky enough to vacation in St. Moritz - rubbing shoulders with Russian oligarchs and skiing alongside Swedish royalty - you’ll want to at least appear as though you’ve been there before. Locals are far too discreet to suggest the best après party for spotting celebs, and even inquiring along these lines will reveal you as an outsider. Instead, grab some designer ski duds and bookmark the below spots to experience St. Moritz like any of its most stylish and in-the-know patrons. 

Getting There

Many a St. Moritz holiday begins with a private jet touching down in nearby Samaden/Engadin airport, a ten minute drive from downtown St. Moritz. For those unable to afford the flight - or unwilling, given the mounting flight-shame directed at one-percenters for flying private - there are also trains from Zurich airport. While train travel may seem pedestrian by comparison, the slow, winding ascent into the upper valleys of the Swiss Alps affords some of the most iconic views in Europe. Pack your favorite book to pass the time, but don’t be surprised when your eyes remain glued to the windows as you pass glittering Alpine lakes, streams meandering through dense pine forests and a patchwork of picturesque mountain villages. 

Where to Stay: Kulm Hotel

Step back in time at St. Moritz’ oldest hotel. Opened in 1856, The Kulm Hotel is credited with hosting the first winter tourists in Europe. Guests will recognize the glamour of its gilded age origins in the ornately carved pine ceilings adorned with massive chandeliers. Its glamorous interiors recently served as backdrop to the star-studded wedding of Greek billionaire Stavros Niarchos to Russian heiress Dasha Zhukova. As the first hotel to grace this elite enclave, The Kulm occupies prime real estate in St. Moritz. Unobstructed views of the town’s eponymous lake and the surrounding Alps can be enjoyed from nearly anywhere on the property - whether sipping champagne in the lobby, reclining on the balcony of your private suite, or from the hotel spa’s heated outdoor infinity pool - part of a recent $10 million renovation. Feeling peckish after a day on the slopes? No need to risk ruining your new designer heels in the snow. Michelin-starred The K by famed Berlin chef Tim Raue is located on-site. For a more casual evening, head across the hall to Sunny Bar’s pop-up Peruvian restaurant, now in its third year at The Kulm and helmed by award-winning chef Claudia Cannessa.

The Kulm Hotel in St. Moritz

Where to Stay: The Grand Hotel Kronenhof 

Those seeking a bit more privacy might opt for a stay at The Grand Hotel Kronenhof in nearby Pontresina, only six kilometers from St. Moritz. Outdating even The Kulm, The Kronenhof opened its doors in 1848 and its grand history permeates every detail of the building’s neo-baroque architecture and decor. The lobby and many of the hotel’s social areas maintain nearly the same layout that existed over a century ago, and in some cases the same furniture. Gazing at these gorgeous antiques, you begin to imagine the society scandals or political discourse that played out among the Kronenhof’s most powerful patrons. Flamboyant, turn-of-the-century ceiling frescas throughout the building are well-preserved and add to the hotel’s grandeur. Downstairs, the spa’s pool is framed by dramatic, two-story windows in a semi-circle overlooking the Swiss Alps. It’s no surprise the spot is among the most popular for a Pontresina Instagram post. For dinner, The Kronenhof’s well-heeled guests gather at on-site restaurant, Kronenstübli, for the popular Canard à la Presse, prepared tableside and paired with superb wines from the hotel’s historic cellar. 

Photos from Marc and my recent visit to the Grand Hotel Kronenhof - I loved getting the New York Times every morning with breakfast!

Where to Dine: CheCha

When it comes to dining on the storied slopes of St. Moritz, CheCha claims favor among discerning ski enthusiasts for striking an ideal balance of casual elegance. Chef Reto Mathis will make all your champagne and caviar dreams come true with a menu of familiar favorites jazzed up with just the right amount of “extra” - like his famously mouthwatering truffle pizza or Caesar salad with lobster and truffles. You can easily spend as many hours making your way through the menu as you did on the slopes, if not more. When you’ve finally finished sampling the cheesecakes, tarts and strudels from CheCha’s Alpine patisserie, enjoy a digestif on the sun-drenched terrace overlooking the Engadin mountains and valley. A short and gentle slope will get you from the restaurant back to the gondola into town - a journey intentionally easy enough for even the most over-served to manage.

CheCha - The best spot in St. Moritz for apres ski!

Where to Drink: Dracula

For a quintessential taste of St. Moritz nightlife, you’ll need the help of an insider. In keeping with the town’s reputation for old world elitism, one of the best places in St. Moritz for a proper party is also a members-only club. What began as an old, secret society for a group of British bobsledders has evolved into the place to be for a night of dancing and drinks with Swiss hedge fund managers, billionaire playboys and a smattering of European royalty. Those who make it through the ice tunnel, pass the guest list and are admitted to its restrictive upper floors will find a smoke-filled bar colored by refractions from a disco ball shaped like garlic (a nod to the name of the club). Don’t bother trying to share the night with your online followers. No phones are allowed here and bouncers will be quick to remove you should one so much as emerge from your clutch. If these walls could talk...

Dracula club…if these walls could talk.

What to Do: White Turf

For an experience you won’t find anywhere else (and one that may not be around for much longer due to climate change) get to St. Moritz for the annual White Turf horse racing event. Taking place at the foothills of the Engadin mountains on a frozen Lake St. Moritz, the multi-week event features as much pomp and pageantry as the Kentucky Derby, only with more fur. When not cheering on the world-class horse races held every half hour, guests keep warm in catered tents, sipping champagne and listening to live music, or strolling through nearby art exhibitions. If racing horses on ice sounds unusual, it’s hardly the most noteworthy event on the schedule. One of the most popular races at White Turf is the Skijoring race, where jockeys are pulled along on skis behind their galloping stallions.

White Turf 2019

What to Do: Ski!

Of course, you would be remiss to make it all the way to St. Moritz in winter and not get out on the slopes at least once - if only to earn the apres cocktail or jacuzzi soak. Skiing in the snowy Swiss Alps is a memory you won’t soon forget. While I grew up skiing almost every weekend, I’ve only been a few times in my adult life. Even still, the mild blue slopes were challenging enough to provide a thrill but easy enough that I could lift my head and take in the stunning surroundings. The Engadin valley is home to many of Switzerland’s most famous glaciers, including the Morteratsch located in Pontresina near the Grand Kronenhof. When you’re not on the slopes, a bundled hike to the Morteratsch is a nice alternative for exercise, with a similar visual payoff.